Workshop : Troubleshooting
How do I look after my new bike?
I keep getting punctures?
My gears don't index correctly?
How long does a chain last?
My gears are slipping?
A noise is audible when putting the power down on the pedals?
The rear wheel rocks from side to side?
The steering vibrates when front brake is applied?
My disc brakes squeal when applied?
Q - How do I look after my new bike?
A -You are best advised to follow a regular maintenance routine - normally every three to four weeks if the cycle's used regularly. Clean the bike using a bike wash fluid. Don't jet wash the cycle as it will push water into the bearing areas. Check the major fastenings are tight. Bars, cranks, wheel quick releases and saddle clamp can sometimes come loose. Lastly, lubricate the chain, mechanism pivots and cables with a lubricant specifically designed for cycling. We use Pedros in our workshops. WD 40 is too thin and not weather resistant whilst "3 in 1" oil is too thick. Keep a good balance between too little and too much oil. Clean an oily chain or component with Finish Line degreaser and a brush.
Q - I keep getting punctures?
A - It is always best to replace an inner tube rather than repair an old one. A repair patch in some cases can break its seal and leak. Tubes are inexpensive. Always check the inner surface of the tyre to make sure no foreign items are protruding like thorns or glass. We sell a lot of anti puncture liners that go between the tyre and tube stopping anything that penetrates your tyres from causing a puncture. When purchasing a new tyre, Specialized make tyres with this liner already fitted. Make sure your old tyres are not cracked. This is due to age and under inflation. The manufacturer of the tyre recommends a suitable pressure on the sidewall of the tyre.
Q - My gears don't index correctly?
A - On newer bikes it could be a simple case of improper cable tension You also should inspect the condition of the gearing components as follows:
Chain - Replace any rusty chains immediately. Oil won't get rid of any corrosion. A chain that has too much oil on it will need to be degreased. We sell what's needed to easily do this at home.
Sprockets/Chainrings - Replace any badly corroded items immediately. Make sure the freewheel mechanism does not have too much sideways play. Make sure a cassette or the chainrings are tight on their mountings.
Cables - Replace any corroded or kinked inners or outers immediately. To check if they run smooth disconnect at the mechanism end and operate the shifters whilst pulling the cable by hand.
Shifters - Any missed shifts usually means a broken ratchet. This will require replacing the whole shifter. Flushing an STI shifter with lube may do as a temporary fix. Sloppy springs in rotational shifters (gripshift) cause poor shifting. They are relatively cheap to replace.
Q - How long does a chain last?
A - Depends on the quality and how well it is looked after. We would recommend regularly using a lube that is specifically developed for cycling such as finish line (link). Tools exist to measure the amount of stretch in the links of a used chain. We use them in our workshops. The chain should be replaced if the links have been stretched more than 1mm.
Q - My gears are slipping?
A - Slipping is when the chain jumps off the sprockets/chainrings when not attempting to change gear. If the chain has been replaced without a new freewheel cassette or vice versa then this would cause slipping, especially in the high gears. These items should always be replaced together. Check to see if the chain or chainrings are twisted. You cannot bend these components back straight, so arrange replacement.
Q - A noise is audible when putting the power down on the pedals?
A - The most common causes are worn bottom bracket bearings. A dull "knocking" sound can be felt through the pedals. Most quality cycles will now use a non-adjustable and non-serviceable cartridge bearing assembly that may need replacement. Your average cycle will use an open assembly, which can be serviced at a cheaper cost. These won't last as long as a cartridge so most choose to replace the whole unit. A higher pitch click is the sign of a worn pedal bearing. Some pedals can be serviced although they can be very tricky. Otherwise replace. Only available in pairs. A "creak" can often be dry pedal tapers or splines on a bottom bracket axle. The solution is to apply copper slip to the contact surfaces. These items can be found in our showrooms.
Q - The rear wheel rocks from side to side?
A - Avoid riding the cycle. The bearing could be loose, and riding with the bearing essentially moving from side to side will damage the bearing cups within the wheel. This would require replacing the hub although on cheaper wheels this would not be economical. In some cases the axle can snap or bend and would need replacing.
Q - The steering vibrates when front brake is applied?
A - The headset could be running loose and should be tightened before riding again. If the bearing feels rough or pitted either replace the bearing, or the whole unit if the cups are damaged. The bushings on suspension forks do wear and cause a vibration. In some forks these are replaceable but can sometimes require sending off to the UK importer for the work to be carried out.
Q - My disc brakes squeal when applied?
A - This problem is rectified by putting a small amount of copperslip on the back of the pads where they come in contact with the pistons. It is also important to clean the disc on a regular basis with a specific spray designed for the job. This must not contain any oil. Avoid getting any on the discs as not to contaminate the pads. Once the pads are contaminated they will need replacing. We stock all the necessary components for this.
The above are only guidelines offered via the benefit of our experience. Ideally a qualified cycle technician should undertake such repairs.